Although many people are intimidated by the reputed complications in keeping Discus, careful keepers and breeders say that these fish are not as difficult to raise as one might think. With special attention to water quality, the Brown Discus, with its gorgeous coloration and unique body shape, can make an attractive and amazing captive.

The Brown Discus is often considered difficult to keep and breed in captivity. However, most enthusiasts maintain that they are actually not hard to successfully raise. The trick seems to be in keeping the water quality absolutely perfect for these fish. Keeping stress levels to a minimum helps as well. Plenty of hiding places should be provided. Although some breeders report that the presence of other fish may cause stress for the Discus, others report that having other fish does not stress the discus; in fact they report that more fish may even be beneficial, especially to the wild caught Discus. In the wild, Discus co-exist peacefully with tight schools of small tetras and anchovies. These small fishes keep the Discus aware of the presence of predators, such as birds, when they get within close proximity. These other fish signal the Discus with their typically timid response to predators, which is to disperse and make a mad dash for cover. Hence, a school of Tetras in the home aquarium that houses wild-caught Discus may make the Discus more confident to venture out and get curious about the world beyond the aquarium viewing panel. When choosing tank mates, it is important to pick those fish that won't compete or harass the Discus. At the same time it is important not to pick fish that are too small, as they may become lunch for the Discus. Bleeding-Heart tetras (Hyphessobrycon erytrostigma) are on top of the list. Not only do they match the above criteria, but also they share the typical Amazon water conditions preferred by the Discus. Congo tetras are too lively, while Bucktooth Tetras (Exodon spec.) may result in discus fatality. Hobbyists report that the best catfish are dull colored Corydoras species such as the Bronze Cory. It is important to choose full colored catfish as some Discus have been reported to playfully harass some catfish, such as the attractive 3-lined Cory, to death. Loricariids should be from Otocinclus genus, as they won't even think of sticking onto a larger, more "mean-looking" Discus, unlike other large Plecos do. It is important not to crowd Discus. When breeding, Brown Discus usually show careful parental care, and protect their fry after hatching, fanning water over them, until they have grown strong enough to swim.

Brown Discus are round in shape and are very thin laterally. They can grow to diameters of ten inches (20 centimeters) and are quite graceful in appearance. The Brown Discus has a small mouth with such a steeply rising forehead that the fish is nearly perfectly round. Its brown anal and dorsal fins have long bases and the edges are rounded. The fin rays are highlighted with red streaks that run parallel to them. Interspersed with these rusty colored streaks are bands of iridescent blue. Brown Discus have saber shaped ventral fins, and yellow or light green caudal fins that are notched. As its name might suggest, the Brown Discus is brown to golden brown. Although there are nine transverse stripes over the length of their bodies, in some fish these are not easily seen. In others, however, they are very well defined. The head of the Brown Discus is particularly interesting, marked in intricate patterns of blue dots and lines. Black vertical lines, or stress bars, may appear over the bodies of Brown Discus when they are stressed or unhealthy. When breeding, glands in the skin of Brown Discus will usually secrete fluids for their young to feed from, in a biological process similar to that of a lactating mammal.

The Brown Discus is native to the upper regions of the Amazon River, and surrounding tributaries. The water in these regions is warm and slightly acidic and is usually clear and deep. Submerged trees usually form homes for wild Brown Discus living in such areas.

Normally, Brown Discus are kept in large aquariums where they have plenty of space and open water in addition to secluded hiding areas. There should be about 50 liters of space for each fish. Lighting for Brown discus should be dim. Water temperatures for Brown Discus should remain between 84 and 86 degrees Fahrenheit (27 to 30 degrees Celsius). A pH of 5.5 to 6.5 is desired, with DH levels between 2 and 3.

Numerous hiding places should be provided, particularly thick, sturdy plants that grow from the bottom of the enclosure to the surface of the water. Often, bog weed is a good choice for Brown Discus. These, with peat, often aid in enhancing the water quality of the enclosure and the coloring of Brown Discus. They are extremely sensitive to water quality, and their enclosures should undergo weekly water replacement of a fourth to a third in volume. Although it may be expensive, more serious hobbyists and breeders recommend using a reverse osmosis system to help maintain water quality. Maintain a shallow gravel layer, natural aquarium gravel #2-3, up to 1/2" deep and to have Corydoras to keep it leftover-food free. Also hydro-vacuum it cleanly so that no chunks of debris except for a biological film coating the gravel grains, is present. Concentrate the vacuuming action on a gravel area for some time before moving on. It pays to have a clean, biologically active substrate and color choices should be dark-brown to dark yellow. Some hobbyists also advise not to use an UGF filter for Discus.

The Discus should be fed a well-rounded, varied diet. A nutritionally complete granulated discus food is often used to make up part of their diets, though you should remember that the most natural diet is often the best diet. The remainder of their food consists of frozen bloodworms and rinsed brine shrimp, in addition to red worms. They are often offered daphnia and tubifex worms as well. Some hobbyists recommend feeding four times a day in moderate amounts. Meals should be varied. For example, the first meal can consist of vitamin-enriched food. The second meal (approximately three hours) can consist of Discus food plus some frozen bloodworms. Live tubifex worms should be given every few days, and should be used the same day they are purchased to preserve their freshness. In order to help promote good health and to maintain a healthy disc shaped body, essential fats and proteins are a must and Tubifex worms have just that, despite their drawbacks. Washing live foods is recommended.

Normally, Brown Discus must be in optimal health before they will breed, and sexual maturity usually occurs between two and three years of age. Since they pair off for life, an acceptable method of pair formation seems to be to combine a group of younger fish. They will then choose their own mates. Because sometimes Brown Discus will form a two-female pair, you should watch each pair to ensure that only one member is depositing eggs. If this happens, one member of the pair should be removed so that the remaining fish will be encouraged to couple with another member of the breeding group. Pairs can be removed to individual breeding tanks before they begin to chase and stress other Brown Discus kept in their enclosures, but some breeders believe it is best not to do so. Rocks or leaves for egg deposition should be offered. Normally the eggs require about 50 hours to hatch. The parents will usually aid the fry in hatching and will transfer them to leaves, where the young will remain for the two to three days before they are able to swim. Because Brown Discus fry feed off of skin secretions on their parents' bodies, many people recommend leaving them with their parents until they are large enough that the parents become distressed. At this point, the fry are removed. Others remove the eggs from the breeding tank immediately and raise the Brown Discus fry on foods like rotifers and hatchling brine shrimp. Fry usually appear elongate, and begin to develop their disc shapes when they are about three months old. The Brown Discus usually acquires adult coloration between eight and nine months of age.