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Common Name:
Angora - Giant
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Photo: Judy Riddle
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Common Name:  Angora - Giant

Other Common Names:  none listed

Scientific Name:  Oryctologus cuniculus  (Full Taxonomy)

Group:  Fancy

Origin or Range:  Massachusetts

Relative Size:  Larger Than Average  
    (as compared to other rabbits)

Average Lifespan:  ??? year(s)

Compatibility:  Relatively Non-Aggressive   
    (as compared to other rabbits)

Category:  Mammals » Rabbits
Animal Description: Breed Standard

Giant Angoras are often described as "gentle giants." They are large and fluffy, mainly bred for their wool.

Giant Angoras will need daily grooming and as they do not molt, you will need to shear them when needed. Because of their large size, the Giant Angora will need a larger cage than other Angoras. Giants Angoras are extremely gentle and easy going so they make excellent pets. Giant Angoras were bred to produce a large amount of wool. Generally when feeding Giant Angora Rabbits, straw and hay are the recommended diet. Straw and hay are given easily to babies and mature adults. Alfalfa can also be given, though it should not be given in unlimited quantities, as this may be fatal for the Giant Angora. Alfalfa may also not be good for babies because it is too rich and may cause diarrhea. Alfalfa should generally only be given in small quantities.

Giant Angoras are the largest of the Angoras. Mature bucks should weigh a minimum of nine and a half pounds, with mature does being larger at a minimum weight of 10 pounds. They should have a commercial body type that is firm, balanced, compact and round. The should have a nice big blocky head in relation to the size of the animal. In a buck one wants to see a bold and blocky head. Giants do have facial furnishings. Although not all breeders desire this. Their ears are rather long and stand up. Giant Angoras only come in white with ruby eyes. There are three types of hair in its wool: underwool, awn fluff and awn hair. The wool is very dense and doesn't usually mat. Their wool should cover all their body except their face. Giant Angoras should have ear tassels and ear fringes. Their wool must be two inches, but four inches is ideal. In show, a Giant Angora will be disqualified for a complete lack of ear tassels, ear fringes, normal hair on the front or hind feet and for a complete absence of wave to the wool, or wool that is excessively coarse. In a show, seniors are eight months or older, and senior bucks should be at least eight and a half pounds, while senior does should be at least nine pounds. Intermediate Angoras are between six and eight months old and juniors are under six months old.

Louise Walsh bred the first Giant Angora from a Giant Angora in Taunton, Massachusetts. Giant Angoras became a recognized breed in 1988.

Specific Care Information: Relative Care Ease: Relatively Difficult

Giant Angora rabbits may be susceptible to a condition known as wool block, although it is less common for them than the Angora breeds. Wool block is caused by ingesting wool when a rabbit grooms himself. If too much wool builds up in the stomach it will mix with food and sit as a ball causing a decrease in appetite. If left untreated the rabbit may die. The propensity to this disorder seems to vary among individuals. Colace is very effective against wool block. It should be given a cc at a time up to three or four times a day until the rabbit begins to pass the 'string of pearls' type of stool which indicates the rabbits digestive system is passing the wool blockage.

Like many show rabbits Giant Angoras may also be prone to wool mites. A common sign of wool mites is wool chewing, though wool chewing can also be caused by a variety of other things such as, protein deficiency, boredom, or the urine of another rabbit (males will sometimes spray females).

Grooming the Giant Angora rabbit is important to help it look its best. People who show their rabbits see grooming as an art form and a skill, which must be learned. A technique called "blowing" is an excellent way to allow one to see the webbing or matting areas and then one may brush or separate those areas during/after the blowing. You will need a high-speed groomer's blower, which uses room-temperature air to separate and clean the fur. It is great if you can use it each day, but even once a week will help stop webbing and mats. Use a slicker brush on the Giant Angora's paws, face and ears. One must also take care not to over groom. Over grooming can cause a complete loss of wool. The Giant Angora's toenails should be clipped about twice a month. Not only does this make the rabbit look well groomed, but it also reduces the danger of it hurting itself or other rabbits.

Giant Angoras sometimes chew on their wool. Some say that it is due to a drop in temperature, not enough protein or not enough fiber. Also, some say that the rabbit needs something to chew on. They may be more inclined to chew their wool when they have itchy skin. If you have a doe that is next to a buck, she may be chewing her wool to get rid the parts that have been sprayed.

Breeding and Propagation: Relative Breeding Ease: Average

Before you decide to breed your Giant Angora Rabbit, it is important to perform some grooming on both the male and female. For the male, it is as simple as making sure his genitalia are not wool bound. The female may need to be clipped or plucked. Does ready to kindle do not usually need great amounts of wool trimmed from their tummy/chest areas. They may need a bit just to shorten the wool the doe needs to pull. Once breeding is ready to begin in some cases, the female may resist the male by running all around the cage. If this should occur, either you can wait it out or you can use the restrained breeding technique. You should talk to experienced breeders for more information on how to properly restrain the female for breeding. Improper restraint can lead to injury for the female. One of the most common occurrences, is not holding the female firmly enough, causing her to harm herself. Many inexperienced breeders have inadvertently caused their females to break their backs or legs by improper handling. Once breeding has occurred, the female can be returned to her own cage. Gestation will last 30 - 35 days. The most important thing is to check the nest box on a regular basis to make certain the kits have not tangled their legs or their necks in the wool. A day after kindling is a good time to cut the wool into short lengths and replace it in the nest box. It is also a good time (if not already done) to check for dead babies or afterbirth and excess bloody material that has not been attended to. ( A dead baby in the nest box increases the chance the doe will not go into that box.)

Pregnant females may often stop eating just prior to kindling. This is normal behavior. The addition of new foods in their diet during this time might skew their pregnancy. After kindling they should be given broccoli or other natural items with vitamin C and calcium to encourage the recovery of the doe and the richness of her milk. If the doe does not start to give milk give her sweetened tea instead of water and it should bring the milk down.

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Saturday, 4 July 2009