The Campbell's Dwarf Hamster is becoming increasingly popular in the pet community. This amusing fellow has a surprisingly large amount of names including, Campbells, Hairy-Footed Dwarf Hamster, Djungarian Hamster and Russian Dwarf Hamster (it should be noted that the name "Russian hamster" applies to both the Campbell's and winter white species).

By whatever name you wish to call him, the Campbell's Dwarf Hamster is a charming creature. Many claim they are much more docile than the popular Syrian Hamster. In addition, they are also more active in the daytime than their cousins the Syrian. They are, however, nocturnal creatures and like other hamsters they are most active at night. Many have loved the lively nature of the Campbell's Dwarf Hamster and find their sporadic bursts of energy during the day wonderful, since so many other hamster breeds only sleep during the day. It is no surprise that they are becoming so popular as pets. They may not be as good with children as some other hamster breeds, because their smaller size makes them more difficult to handle. They are also more prone to nip if mishandled, more so than their cousins, the Syrian. The Campbell's Dwarf Hamster does not have the best eyesight like other hamsters, and it is recommended that you let them know you are approaching before you pick them up by speaking to them. This is done so someone suddenly grabbing them does not frighten them. This will prevent instances of fear biting. How would you feel if a giant hand from the sky suddenly grabbed you unexpectedly! For best results in taming, it is recommended that you speak to and handle your hamster daily. The Campbell's is a very social hamster, and unlike the Syrian Hamster, the Campbells Dwarf Hamster does well housed in groups. In fighting occurs only infrequently and is usually cause by one troublesome individual. The groups can be same sex groups or composed of several females and one male. They do much better if raised in this manner. Putting new adults together can be tricky and can result in fights and in some cases death. If you wish to introduce a new Campbell's Dwarf Hamster to the group it is recommended this be done in a fresh new cage free of any odor or other hamsters. This will decrease territorial behavior.

The Campbell's Dwarf Hamster is smaller than its better-known cousin the Syrian. Adult length is typically 10-12cm, males being heavier than females. Like the Syrian, they come in a variety of color and patterns. Some of these include; black, dilute, lilac, red eyed lilac, chocolate, blue opal, champagne, pearl, sapphire, imperial, natural gray also known as agouti (wild type), albino, argente, black eyed argente, lilac fawn, beige, dark beige, blue beige umbrous, dove, blue fawn, mottled, ruby eyed mottled, dilute platinum and platinum. Eye color is seen in pink, red and black. The coat of the Campbells Dwarf Hamster comes in the following types, wavy, satin, and curly (rex).

The Campbell's Dwarf Hamster was first discovered almost 100 years ago in 1905 and was later kept in Moscow. They were first imported to the United Kingdom in the early to mid 1960s. It was not until the early 1980s that they became popular as pets. Before then they were primarily used in research. There is some debate as to whether or not the Campbell's Dwarf Hamster is the same hamster as the Winter White or Siberian. Some literature states they are the same, while other claim they are separate and that mixed breeding between the two is clouding the issue. The confusion should be eliminated by the fact that the two breeds have different scientific names Campbell's are "Phodopus campbelli" and winter whites are "Phodopus sungorus". It should also be noted that crossbreeding between the two species is reported to result in infertile offspring and is discouraged by many breeders.

Bedding for the Campbells Dwarf Hamster should not be made of cedar. Many Campbells Dwarf Hamster's are sensitive to Cedar oil and its presence will cause sickness and in many cases death. "Fluffy bedding" often sold as safe for hamsters can cause cheek pouch impactions and gastric blockages. Aspen and paper/wood pulp-based bedding are safest. Un-dyed, unscented toilet paper makes good nesting material.

Campbells Dwarf Hamster's often appear larger than they are because of their thick fur. They can easily squeeze through small areas, so care must be taken that your cage has appropriately spaced bars that your hamster cannot escape through. For this reason glass or plastic cages are recommended.

Campbells Dwarf Hamsters are social and for this reason they do very well if kept in pairs or groups. It is important that they be introduced by the time they are 6 to 8 weeks of age ( or younger if possible) to prevent fighting. Some squeaking and squabbling is normal, but if there are signs of wounds and blood they should be separated.

Most Campbells Dwarf Hamsters enjoy running on wheels, but always be sure to buy a solid wheel for your dwarf hamster. Their tiny legs can fall through wire or plastic wheels and get broken.

The Campbells Dwarf Hamster can also be susceptible to Diabetes Mellitus, umbilical infections, respiratory infections and intestinal upset.

The Campbells Dwarf Hamster can be come pregnant by 5 weeks of age and for this reason they should be separated into male and female cages by the time they reach this age if you do not intend to breed. If you do intend to breed they should kept in pairs, and should be introduced at a young age (before reaching 8 weeks of age) to prevent fighting.

Since they are kept in pairs there are often questions about what to do if one of the paired hamsters dies or needs to be removed from breeding. If the female has to be removed from the cage the older male will almost always accept a new younger female. Introducing a new older female usually results in fighting. If the male dies or has to be removed it is usually very difficult to introduce a new male. Fighting almost always occurs.

Some breeders choose to house the males and females separately until they are ready to be bred. In this case always place the female in the male's cage for breeding and not the other way around. If the male is placed into the female's cage the female often panics and will fight with the male. This can result in injury or death to one or both of the hamsters. The female should be taken out of the cage a week or two before her due date.

After breeding the female undergoes a gestation period that lasts between 18 and 21 days on average. Babies are usually weaned by 17 days. Campbells will breed regularly when kept in pairs, and will produce new litters at a constant rate. They do have the capability of "delayed implantation" allowing the female to take a break when needed.

Some hobbyists recommend against keeping the male in with the female after she has given birth, because he will sometimes attack the babies and eat them in order to mate with the female again (She won't be as eager mate with him as long as she has a litter to care for - though this does not mean they won't mate. They can breed within the first 24 hours after birth.). Other studies have shown that most Campbells males don't often eat the babies. That in fact many males will try and assist the female. Some male hamsters inadvertently kill the young because they cuddle with them too much and they baby starves to death. With Campbell's it just depends on the individual male. Most males try to care for the babies, some leave them alone, and you do on occasion get one that will eat the young. You just have to watch the male when the babies are born and see how reacts.