Though they are often touted as such, Box Turtles are usually not a good choice for beginners. Their environmental requirements and often finicky eating habits in captivity can make them costly and difficult to keep successfully. In addition, they are not particularly well suited as children's pets because they are generally shy animals that do not appreciate being handled. The ideal enclosure for the Three Toed Box Turtle is a large outdoor enclosure. Some keepers will use an indoor enclosure such as a terrarium with about two to three inches of orchid bark. If keeping your turtles indoors, it is crucial that a UVB-emitting reptile bulb be used. The bulb should be placed within about 12 inches above the turtle and should be on for about 13 hours a day. Natural sunlight the turtles would get in an outdoor enclosure is far better than any artificially produced lighting, so outdoor housing is preferred. It is especially important for younger, growing turtles to receive high amounts of UVB exposure. Successful indoor maintenance will depend largely on the age of the turtle and the amount and intensity of UVB lighting provided. Three Toed Box Turtles like to soak often and should have an adequately large water dish that they can easily get in and out of. They tend to foul their water very frequently, so it may need to be cleaned daily. They should have hiding spots and an area for burrowing available. Three Toeds should also have a basking area that is maintained at 87 - 90 degrees Fahrenheit, and a cooler, shaded area. If multiple box turtles are housed together they should have plenty of room and hiding places to get away from others when they desire. Adult male box turtles will spar and generally, should not be housed together. Certain individuals, male or female, may act aggressively towards cagemates, and will need to be kept singly to prevent injury or undue stress in the others. The group will also need to be monitored to make sure that all the turtles are eating properly. Their diet should consist of both plant and animal matter. Younger Box Turtles should have a diet more rich in protein than their adult counterparts. As the turtles age, the protein portion of the diet should be decreased. The adult's diet should consist mostly of plant matter. Suitable protein sources include crickets, waxworms, mealworms, earthworms, redworms, slugs, boiled chicken, and the occasional pinky mouse. Fruits should make up a small part of the diet, as they are nutritionally poor. Since vegetables should make up a large portion of the diet, it is important that most of them be relatively nutritious and, in particular, calcium-rich. Dark leafy green vegetables such as collard greens, turnip greens, dandelion greens, swiss chard, parsley, and cilantro are all excellent choices. Vegetables that are high in oxalic acid, such as cabbages, rhubarb, and spinach, should be fed very sparingly, if at all, as calcium will become chemically bound in such a way that it is not utilizable by the body. Lettuces have virtually no nutritional value, so they should also be avoided. Canned light dog food (a premium brand) and moistened primate biscuits are good supplements for the diet and are often relished. It is also advisable to use a calcium supplement on all insects, fruits, and low-calcium vegetables; and a multivitamin used a couple of times a week can help ensure your turtle is receiving the proper nutrition. When choosing your turtles diet, take into consideration its age and amount of body fat. Feeding too many high-protein, fatty foods, such as canned dog food, worms, and mice, can lead to obesity. Though many Box Turtles prefer such foods, having too much body fat is very unhealthy. In addition, too much protein in the diet can lead to shell and skeletal deformities and is hard on the kidneys. |