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Care Information for Raptors
(including any information on the Falcon - Saker)

Housing - Part 2 of 7

Because raptors are very active birds, they are generally kept in large enclosures. Often, these enclosures are specially constructed, since raptors can be nervous and are also very powerful birds that can harm themselves if they crash into an area of their enclosure during a panic. Many areas have certain guidelines concerning raptor housing that must be met in order to obtain any permits necessary to own such birds. Before erecting an area to house raptor, you should familiarize yourself with any regulations that might apply to your area. Generally, raptor housing includes both indoor and outdoor facilities. Some people provide indoor - outdoor enclosures that allow their raptors free choice of the extent to which they are sheltered. Others may house their birds entirely indoors and allow them outside for a period of supervised exercise each day. This is common with smaller birds, like small breeds of falconers' hawks or falcons. All areas where raptors are kept should be free from any rough areas, protruding sharp objects, or materials that raptors could become entangled in. Enclosures should be in a quiet location free from excessive human traffic, animal activity, or loud noises.

An indoor facility, known as a mew, should provide some sort of physical separation between birds if more than one raptor is housed inside it. You may wish to have two doors present in such an enclosure. One should open into an entry way, and this door can be shut before entering the mew itself. Such a precaution can aid in preventing the escape of raptors. Aside from some place for the raptor to perch, it would ideally have a window or some other source of outdoor light for the bird. This window should be protected by bars on the inside, spaced narrowly enough that the bird cannot get between them. The area where a raptor is kept should provide adequate space for the bird to perform normal activities like standing without crouching, spreading its wings and flapping, and perching in an elevated area. If your bird does not receive as much outdoor exercise as you might like it to, you should provide a larger indoor area for it. Some people find that a room in their home, or a patio may be easily converted into a mew for their raptor.

Usually, indoor enclosures have outdoor areas adjacent to them where birds may be exercised, called weathering areas. These can include aviaries where raptors are intended to spend most of their time, or simple enclosed exercise yards that are used for set times each day. The fencing of the outdoor enclosure should create an area high enough and long enough for the raptor to be able to take flight from a perch located in an elevated position. Framing should be constructed on the outside of the enclosure. The fencing should be of a size that the raptor will not injure itself by becoming entangled in it, and should be adequate to keep out any predators that may attempt to enter. Usually, metal wires, chicken wire, and metal meshes are not recommended for use in such an enclosure. Wooden or PVC slats small enough that the bird cannot fit though them are recommended. Loose netting and vinyl mesh have also been reported to be useful fencing materials, though some birds have been known to become entangled in such materials. Sometimes the roof may be constructed as a solid material, or it may be provided using some material like shade cloth. Frequently, the fencing itself may be covered by an inside "fence" constructed of shade cloth or some other material that will give if the raptor flies into it. However, some birds may develop the habit of hanging from such materials and can destroy them quickly, particularly larger raptors like eagles. If the fence is not set in a concrete base, it should attach to metal fencing that extends below the ground surface to deter any predators from digging their way inside. If your bird is housed in a permanently located aviary, you should provide it with some sort of roofed area where it can shelter from the elements. In areas that have excessively cold or hot periods of the year, some indoor or otherwise climatically controlled accommodation should be made for your raptor.

Although many raptors may do well in a variety of climates, they cannot tolerate extreme temperatures. Protection should be offered in instances of extreme weather, as previously mentioned. Even if you live in an area where your raptors can do well year round when exposed to outside temperatures, you should have some sort of contingency plan for unexpected weather that could harm your bird. Like all birds, raptors can suffer from both hypothermia and heat stroke if conditions are not correct.

Most raptors need daylight, and many will do well when kept outside or indoors with a window to the outside. Nocturnal raptors like owls, however, can have different needs. Enclosures for nocturnal raptors should be kept dark or should have some dark; private area the raptor can retreat to during the daylight hours. These raptors should not be constantly exposed to direct light, or they may become stressed.

Raptors will usually do best when they are kept in a draft free, low humidity environment. Often, raptor keepers find it easy to eliminate standing water in their birds' enclosures by constructing enclosures with floors that slope down to a drain. Raptors do have certain water requirements, however. Not only do they require fresh drinking water at all times, but a bath pan is also necessary to aid the bird in maintaining its feather condition. A bath pan should be shallow enough that the bird's head will not be submerged when the raptor is inside it. However, it should be wider than the bird's length to allow adequate movement when bathing. This water should be changed daily. Drinking water should be changed whenever it becomes soiled. Although not all raptors drink, some may drink water in hot weather, or others may drink regularly. Often, water dishes are kept in a shaded area to ensure that the water inside does not become hot and stale on warm days. In winter, you should ensure that your bird's water will never freeze.

For all raptors, perches should be present inside the enclosures, both indoors and outdoors. Because these birds tend to land on their perches at some forward velocity, landing can have a stressful impact. Often perches with some amount of flex will be healthier for raptors and can aid in preventing foot injuries. Many people use cork bark or some other type of soft wood. Perches can also be constructed using PVC pipe. This can be covered in some type of cushioning material, often some sort of foam, and then covered with sisal rope or plastic grass to provide sufficient gripping surface. The perch itself should have a small amount of give when the bird lands on it, as would a tree branch. In fact, freshly cut tree branches can also make good perches. In outdoor enclosures, perches should be located in both exposed and sheltered areas of the enclosure. Also, because many raptors refuse to share perches, each bird should have its own perch if you are keeping more than one bird in an enclosure. The diameter of each perch should be appropriate to the size of the bird. For example, smaller birds like kestrels will not be able to easily grip large tree branches, and larger raptors like eagles may be unable to grip small diameter PVC pipe. Perches should not be located too close to items like walls, as raptors can damage their feathers when brushing against walls repeatedly or by moving into them while sitting on the perch. If it is attached to the wall, the perch should be long enough that the raptor does not touch the wall when it turns around. The perch should be low enough that the bird does not make contact with the ceiling of its enclosure but high enough that no feathers touch the ground. Raptors usually feel more comfortable on perches that are at a height similar to the height of their human caretaker.

Many nocturnal raptors like owls may appreciate a nesting box present in their enclosure. Usually, this is entirely enclosed save for an entry hole, and is often constructed of wood. It should be large enough that the bird can turn and move comfortably inside it, and the entry hold should be of sufficient size that it can enter and exit easily. However, the hole should be small enough that the raptor can still feel protected and have a relatively dark environment while inside.

Food dishes are normally located near perches or nesting boxes. These can be slabs or bowls that are removable and easy to clean although stable, so that they cannot fall on and injure a raptor. Many birds may bite their food dishes, so the dishes should be fairly sturdy. These will need to be removed and disinfected after each feeding to prevent bacterial growth.

People with large aviaries may wish to have more natural enclosures. Such people plant trees, bushes, or other items inside the aviary. Generally, aviary plants should be well established before birds are placed in the enclosure. Trees can make fine perches, but because raptors often fly at high speeds, you should be sure that they are not harming themselves by crashing into branches. For this reason, there should not be as many vertically tall plants that will interfere with flight. Bushes should be lower to the ground rather than taller.

A proper substrate can assist in cleaning a raptor's enclosure. Some people prefer cement floors with drains that can be easily scrubbed and disinfected. Other people keeping raptors in smaller enclosures may use several layers of newspaper or a removable shelf that can be changed regularly. An alternative is plastic grass. Having two pieces can facilitate cleaning; one can be used while the other is cleaned. Sand and large river gravel can cushion the ground landings of raptors. However, feather damage has been reported by some people using sharp edged gravel on the bottoms of the enclosures. For more natural enclosures, topsoil or wood chips may be used, though these items can prove more difficult to clean. However, they may also have the advantage of being odor absorbing and of cushioning ground landings. Wet or damp materials should be removed immediately to prevent respiratory problems or the opportunity for fungal or mold spores to take hold. Sand or gravel should be spot cleaned as necessary, and should be entirely replaced each year.

A large stone or an Emory cloth covered surface should be present somewhere inside the enclosure for the bird to use in honing down its beak.

Cleaning of the enclosure should occur regularly with spot cleaning and cleaning of feeding and water containers occurring daily. At longer intervals, the raptor should be removed from the enclosure and the entire area should be rinsed and scrubbed. All physical soiling should be removed, and a disinfectant should be applied to every surface. Thorough rinsing should follow to avoid leaving any traces of chemicals that could be harmful to your bird once it is returned to the enclosure.

In the wild, raptors are usually solitary birds. Some may take a mate each breeding season, and others may mate for life. Others, particularly vultures or condors, may be a bit more social and can form large family groups in some seasons of the year. Usually, raptors are best kept alone or in pairs. Because some are territorial, particularly at mating season, it may be useful to keep breeding pairs in separate enclosures. Different species of raptor should generally not be mixed, and raptors should usually not be kept with other types of birds, particularly if a significant size discrepancy is evident. Raptors may prey upon other, particularly smaller, birds in their enclosures. Birds should be kept in adjacent pens with a window or should otherwise be in visual proximity for some time before they are introduced. If one or both birds shows aggression, they should be separated again. It is not a good idea to combine raptors unless you are sure that the birds you are combining can coexist peacefully.

Part One - IntroductionPart Three - Diet
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Please Note: This care sheet is copyright © The Central Pets Educational Foundation (CentralPets.com). It may be freely distributed provided that this notice and Copyright remains included and unchanged. We encourage veterinarians, clubs, pet stores, breeders, humane societies, and others to use this to educate people and promote better pet care. Additions, suggestions, corrections, and questions regarding this care sheet are welcome and should be directed to content@CentralPets.com

Sunday, 23 November 2008