The location in your home is an important part of housing your snake. It should be in a quiet place, away from lots of human traffic as well as noise. Keeping your snake on top of your television or stereo will be extremely disturbing for it, as snakes are sensitive to vibrations created by sound. A snake who is stressed may not thrive and can be more susceptible to disease and infection than other snakes. Your snake's enclosure should be of sturdy material with a securely-locking mechanism on the door or lid. Snakes should not be allowed to roam free or unsupervised in a house. There are many different types of enclosures for snakes. Although some people prefer glass aquariums, other people keep their snakes in simple plastic sweater boxes. Some people prefer plastic or glass lids, while others prefer screens. Your snake's enclosure depends upon the size of your snake, the space you are willing to donate to it, and your snake's temperature or humidity requirements. The preferred attributes for a snake's enclosure include water impermeability and good ventilation. The possibility of escape is another important consideration when housing your snake. Larger snakes may be able to push open even very strong doors or lids. Some people like to place weights on a removable lid to ensure that the snake is not strong enough to push it open. One of the most popular types of snake enclosure is the slide-top terrarium. These are extremely useful and are often praised by experienced snake keepers. Consider your snake's natural habitat in choosing a home for it. Arboreal snakes will need enclosures which are vertically oriented. Ground dwelling species will not need tall enclosures; rather, they should be horizontal. Some snakes bury themselves in the wild, Sand Boas for example, and this should also be taken into consideration when choosing an enclosure as you will have to allow for a thick enough layer of substrate. Most of these needs can be met with a slide-top terrarium; for arboreal species, it may be turned on end so the length is positioned upward, and for ground dwelling species, it is used horizontally.

It is important to keep in mind your snake's size when choosing an enclosure for it to live in. Usually the rule of thumb says you should have a cage with a length approximately equal to three quarters your snake's length. The cage's width should be about a third of your snake's length. Again, however, remember that for some snakes the length of the cage will be used as height. A common misconception is that snakes need exercise in the same way that mammals do - they do not! Your snake will be fine in a smaller enclosure than you might have thought. However, some snakes do need to be able to stretch out or they may become more susceptible to respiratory infections. The ability to change position or stretch is also important in maintaining your snake's muscle tone. It is a myth that snakes will only grow relative to the size of their enclosure. It is usually best to house your snakes separately unless you are mating them. Some snakes, like Kingsnakes, may eat each other, although others may not. You may also want to allow for a larger enclosure if you plan on using it for more than one snake.

Although they do not have light spectrum requirements, snakes should have a timed regimen of lighting to simulate day and night times, and these times should vary seasonally. Often breeding is encouraged by simulating winter with shorter daylight and cooler temperatures. Different types of timers are available for purchase, and some can be set to simulate seasonal change in daily increments over an extended period of time without your having to tend to them beyond initial programming. Do not try to use sunlight from windows to light or heat your snake's enclosure and do not keep it outside in a glass enclosure. It is too easy for the enclosure to become overheated in a very short amount of time. Be sure to check to determine whether or not your snake is nocturnal, since this will be a consideration in your light program. Too much light may cause stress to nocturnal snakes. Red lights may be used to view these snakes, who will most likely be hidden away during daylight hours.

Because snakes cannot generate heat or cool themselves, their body temperature will be the same as the temperature of their surroundings. Snakes will move between hotter and cooler areas in their environment in order to achieve a comfortable body temperature. This behavior is known as thermoregulation. The body temperature at which a snake will thrive in the daytime is known as its optimal temperature. Nighttime should be accompanied by a temperature drop, usually between five and 20 degrees Fahrenheit. Although the optimal temperature is the temperature you should strive to achieve as the general temperature in the enclosure during the day, the nighttime temperature drop is also important. Snakes who are kept at their optimal temperature over extended periods of time, even several days, without nighttime temperature drops are more likely to have health problems. Be sure you know the environmental conditions of the natural habitat of your snake. In order to keep it most comfortable, you should make an effort to reproduce as closely as possible the seasonal light variations, temperatures, and levels of humidity of your animal's region of origin. You may have to provide a heat source for your snake's enclosure. You should also keep a thermometer in your snake's enclosure. It is best to keep one thermometer in the warmer end and one in the cooler end also. Thermometers may be obtained at pet supply stores. They range from very simple mechanisms to easy-to-read digital displays. Generally, snakes need a warm basking area in the enclosure and a cooler place in the enclosure so that they can thermoregulate on their own. There should be a difference in temperature from one area of the enclosure to another. The basking spot can be created with a light bulb, ceramic heat emitter, or red light of a specific wattage to accomplish the temperature your snake needs. Often a large flat rock or branch may be a good focal point for this heat. Be sure the basking spot does not interfere with the temperature in the rest of the cage, and that it is small enough where the snake can avoid it should it become too hot. Do not place it in the middle of the enclosure; rather, choose one end to use as the warm end of the cage so the snake may move easily into a cooler area. Many arboreal snakes will appreciate a high basking spot, focused on a tall branch; in this case, the cool end of the cage will be the lowest area of the enclosure. While snakes from tropical zones also need a basking spot, generally they will not use it as much as snakes from temperate climates. If you choose to keep a snake from a more temperate climate, it is important for you to have a basking spot available to it at all times. Temperatures required by snakes for basking spots vary, and you should find out which is best for your snake. To make sure the basking spot is not too hot, place your hand where the snake will rest. The temperature here should be equivalent to that of noonday sun in the summer. If it feels too hot for your hand, it is too hot for your snake. The idea is to create a gentle, even type of warmth. Then your snake may safely fall asleep under the heat of the basking spot. General, or ambient, temperature is often achieved nicely with an under cage heater, which will create a more even, less direct temperature. Heating pads or heat tape are usually employed. A word of caution with burrowing species of snakes, however; if they lay on the glass under their substrate, even an under-cage heater may overheat them. You may choose to use both under and over cage heat. In this case, be sure they are both in the same area of the enclosure. Some people choose to use hot rocks, but these have been known to inflict serious burns to reptiles, causing serious injury and possibly resulting in death. Most experienced snake keepers do not use hot rocks. When constructing the enclosure and placing heating elements, be sure to remember that creating a temperature gradient is important. Keep in mind that if you keep your snake in a smaller enclosure such as a plastic sweater box, you will not be able to effectively create a temperature gradient. You may need to regulate temperature in the entire room where the snake is kept in order to regulate the snake's temperature. This applies to humidity levels as well.

Humidity is an important consideration for your snake's housing. It is important to be familiar with the humidity level at which your snake will thrive. Often this will match the humidity level in its natural environment. While tropical snakes will need a higher moisture level, snakes native to the desert may not need any additional moisture in their enclosures. Humidity gauges are available at your local pet supply or electronics store. Like thermometers, there are a wide variety of styles and prices available.

Humidity needs may be met by misting at daily or weekly intervals. Ultra-sonic misters are an option that may eliminate the need for you to use a spray bottle. They are rather attractive, often being shaped in the form of some sort of cage decoration like a rock, and constantly emit water mist. If you keep many snakes in a room, another option is to use a room humidifier to keep the air moist. To help maintain humidity levels, a plastic rather than a mesh top may be necessary to trap moisture in the enclosure. Another effective way to trap humidity is to cover screening on the cage, or a mesh top, with plastic wrap. For vertical enclosures, leave a one to two centimeter hole at each end of the cage for ventilation. Larger holes may be required for horizontal enclosures. Using cage decor to help retain water, such as wood or absorbent substrates, can also be helpful. Be sure to use distilled water when misting or spraying in order to prevent mineral build up or spots on the enclosure. However, do not give your snake distilled water for drinking! Above all, remember that the goal is to reproduce the natural environment of your snake.

Snakes also need a water bowl that they cannot easily tip over. Most snakes will soak in the water bowl occasionally, particularily when they are preparing to shed, and should have a bowl large enough for them to coil up in.

A substrate is generally necessary in order to facilitate cleaning your snake's cage, and it will also help to keep the snake itself clean to help avoid health problems. It is important that you choose a substrate that your snake cannot easily ingest. Even materials which are supposed to be digestible may cause impactions in your snake's digestive system. For an initial substrate in a new snake's enclosure, use paper towel, white butcher paper, or newspaper until you have given your veterinarian a fecal sample and you are sure that your snake is parasite free. Mites or other problems will be easier to see. For a permanent substrate, many people prefer a decorative material. Not only does it enhance your home decor, but it compliments your snake's beauty as well! However, sometimes simple substrates are easiest. Layers of white butcher paper or newspaper are best. They are absorbent, clean, cheap, and easy to remove and replace. Some people may wish to use blank newspaper for lighter colored snakes. Occasionally, ink has been known to smudge onto white snakes that emerge dripping from their water bowls. Astroturf works quite well, especially if you rotate two pieces, using one while you clean the others. Aspen shavings or dry orchid bark chips are nice, and it is easy to scoop out the soiled areas, however, be sure to feed your snake in a separate container so it does not ingest the wood shavings. Pine bark has also been used, but is controversial, as it and pine shavings are reputed to be toxic. Redwood and cedar are known to be toxic, so don't use these. Corncob, gravel, and crushed walnut are generally not recommended, and can be harmful to your snake if accidentally ingested. For burrowing snakes, you may need to utilize soil or sand. Be sure to feed these snakes in a separate enclosure to avoid the possibility of accidentally ingesting this material.

A hide box is helpful for most snakes, especially those who are on display or in an area where they are exposed to lots of human activity. This will give the snake an opportunity to escape stressful situations. It can be helpful to have one hiding place in each end of the snake's enclosure, so that way it can select the best one based on its temperature needs. Hide boxes will also help to maintain humidity. Many people like to decorate their snake's cage with climbing branches or with shelves. Branches are important for arboreal snakes and make fine focal points for basking spots.

Cleaning the cage regularly and often is essential; every one or two weeks is usually sufficient. Snakes in dirty cages are more susceptible to skin problems, bacterial invasions, and respiratory infections. Commercial household cleaners should generally be avoided, as they may contain ingredients that are toxic to snakes. A simple bleach and water solution works well. No matter what you use, be sure to rinse out the cage very well when you have finished cleaning. Your veterinarian may also have other recommendations. There are two types of cleaners: mechanical cleaners and disinfectants. Mechanical cleaners help remove actual dirt or soiling. Disinfectants kill germs. When cleaning your snake's cage, use mechanical cleaners first and then disinfectants. After cleaning be sure the cage is relatively dry before putting everything back in.

Hibernation is a survival technique used by animals in the wild to help them make it through the winter. It is not required to successfully keep a snake in captivity. Many people believe that their snakes must be hibernated in the winter. This is only true if you plan on breeding your snakes, and even then, only for some species. Only healthy snakes should be hibernated. Remember that if you do plan to hibernate your snake for breeding, it must be done at a specific temperature. Simply lowering the temperature in your snake's enclosure is not the same as hibernating your snake. This may only give you a snake that is not cold enough to hibernate but too cold to remain healthy. Be sure to find out and provide the temperature at which your snake should hibernate. Do not feed your snake for two weeks before reducing the temperature. Snakes who are too cold cannot digest their food, and it will simply remain in their intestines, causing illness. Also, do not feed your snake for about a week after it comes out of hibernation. Not all snakes are capable of hibernating. Find out for sure before attempting it.

Part One - Introduction	Part Three - Diet
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